|
Spa Runs,
No Error Codes, But its not Heating |
|
If the heater light
DOES come on
it's either the heater itself or the pcboard. The only way to check is with a
volt/ohm meter. |
| |
| Step 1. First Test The
Heater: |
|
Heaters work by resistance. A voltage
is applied to the heater and it resist the flow of
current and in doing so, heats up. Spa heaters
typically have 10-15 ohm resistance. |
|
Identify your heater. Its either a
canister heater (connected by a heavy cord to the
control box) or horizontal heater (directly
connected to the control box). |
|
Canister heater is easiest to test.
Turn main spa power OFF. The heavy cord is plugged
into the side of the control box. Unplug. Set your
meter to OHMS. Plug one probe on each line going to
the heater. You should get 10-15 ohms resistance. If
not, bad heater-replace. If yes, go to step 2. |
|
The other less common heater is the
horizontal. To test that you turn of main power to
the spa. Remove the cover of the control box. You
will see 2 posts coming through the wall of the
control box to the board. Perform same test as
described above touching your probes on either the
heater's 2 posts or where the heater connects to the
board. Same results. |
| |
| Step 2. Testing the board. |
|
Warning: You will be working with live current. If
you are not experienced with electrical tests, refer
this test to a qualified person. |
|
Set the meter to VOLTS above 300vac.
Turn on main power. When the heater light comes ON,
on the cord type spa, insert one probe into each
line socket (just like if you were testing a wall
socket). You should get either 115 or 230vac. If
not, you have a bad board. |
|
For spas with a horizontal heater,
same test placing your probes on the same point as
you test the OHMS. |
| |
|
NOTE: NEVER put a meter so to OHMS on a Live
Electrical Spa. Also, be careful not to touch any
surface other than the surface you are testing. |
